Sunday, May 11, 2014

Vintage Simplicity 2522

When PatternReview's contest page started announcing that the upcoming challenge was "Vintage," I immediately started searching through my vintage pattern stash for something to make. I didn't want to have to work too hard grading a small pattern so I looked for something close to my size, hoping all it would need would be a full bust adjustment and maybe a little width at the sides.  I finally settled on Simplicity 2522, a 1958 pattern for blouses with bateau necklines.



View 2 had sleeves and I didn't want them, view 3 was too short, so I settled on view 1.  I made a muslin and, much to my surprise, I didn't need to make any adjustments for the bust or any grading.  I ended up doing only one adjustment, I took about 3/4 of an inch off the neckline.  When I did that to the muslin, everything looked OK, but not so for the final blouse.  The neckline is still not right and should have some more fabric taken out, which would also bring the shoulders in a bit. More importantly, however, the back could really benefit from a swayback adjustment.  I actually sewed the muslin with a center back seam expecting to have to do the adjustment but either I was blind or something because the back of the blouse has too much fabric and it bunches up at my waist.  That said, I like the look of the blouse.



The blouse has an all in one facing and a separating zipper on the left side seam. I actually followed the instructions on the pattern, which were a bit fuzzy, and I don't like how the zipper is inserted. It doesn't make for a neat finish and I'm sure it can be done better.  The first time I inserted the zipper the fabric didn't meet in the center and the zipper was visible.  I unpicked the zipper and applied it again with more success, but I'm still not happy with the way it looks.  The instructions have you add the facing and finish the neckline/armscyes before adding the zipper, so you have end up with the zipper outside of the facing, if that makes sense.  I wish I had taken a picture.   The blouse's hem is open from the bottom trimming down and the side with the zipper looks off even with the hook and eye I inserted to make it look neater.   Last, the blouse rides up on my chest when I sit down.



I wore the blouse today and I did get compliments on it, and I do love the bows so much, but I still know what I could have, and should have, done better.  I will still wear it though, and maybe even make another one with a better fit.

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